Does Giwa Santa Clara Live up to the Mercury News Brunch Hype? Our Field Report
By James H. Sterling
The Giwa Santa Clara menu prioritizes depth of flavor over theatrical plating. Rather than relying on sugar-heavy marinades, the kitchen leans on extended simmering times and balanced aromatics. Tables are anchored by three core offerings that appear on nearly every order.
First is the seolleongtang, an ox bone soup simmered for more than fourteen hours until the broth turns milky white and silk-textured. Served unseasoned alongside coarse sea salt, chopped scallions, and fresh cracked pepper, it allows diners to dial in their own salinity. The resulting broth is rich in collagen without feeling cloying, pairing seamlessly with their sharp, house-fermented radish kkakdugi.
Second is the braised galbi-jjim. Slow-cooked beef short ribs pull cleanly off the bone in a glaze reduced with Korean pear, soy, and garlic. Daikon radish, carrots, and chestnuts soak up the rendered braising jus, providing an earthy balance. For larger groups, this dish functions as the centerpiece of the table, flanked by bowls of freshly steamed purple multigrain rice.
Third is the haemul pajeon, a seafood scallion pancake that serves as the benchmark test for any Korean kitchen. Giwa’s version avoids the dense, doughy trap that plagues lesser kitchens. The edges carry a distinct shatter, studded with tender squid rings, bay shrimp, and whole scallion stalks that retain their sweet, onion bite.
James Sterling reports on renewable energy developments, climate policy, ecological conservation, and green tech innovations around the globe.
