Payne's Bar-B-Q in 2026: Ron Payne on Community Legacy and Enduring Popularity
By James H. Sterling
Barbecue in Memphis is overwhelmingly associated with dry-rub ribs or pulled pork drowning in sweet, molasses-forward tomato sauce. Payne's fundamentally upends that expectation. Their chopped pork sandwich is an aggressive, tactile dish that balances sharp acidity, lingering heat, and rich smoke.
The preparation begins on the cutting board, where pork shoulder is chopped by hand with a heavy cleaver. Rather than shredding meat into uniform strands, the pitmaster leaves an intentional mix of soft interior meat and deeply caramelized exterior bark, known locally as "outside meat." This textural variety provides crunch in every mouthful.
The real calling card, however, is the slaw. Unlike standard mayonnaise-based picnic slaws, Payne's mustard slaw is bright yellow, sharp, and spiked with vinegar, mustard seed, and a secret chili blend. Poured directly onto the warm chopped pork beneath a plain, steamed hamburger bun, the cold, tangy cabbage cuts through the fatty richness of the pork instantly. Diners can specify mild or hot; the hot version introduces a stinging cayenne punch that separates serious regional enthusiasts from casual diners.
James Sterling reports on renewable energy developments, climate policy, ecological conservation, and green tech innovations around the globe.
